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South America: The Wrap Up & FAQ

What can I say, we've conquered our first continent (well, second with Antarctica, but that was more of a cushy vacation than a conquest). When we originally set out on our great adventure, the plan was to spend between three and four months in South America. Six months  after arriving in Bogota, we have finally moved on. We had a few rough patches and things didn't always go according to plan, but I have to say... the last six months have been incredible. I have learned so many new things, met so many fantastic people, and seen the most beautiful places imaginable. In South America, we traveled through six countries and averaged $99 per day. Now that our time  there has come to an end, we've had some recurring questions that I would like to try and answer in one place.  We had a pre-trip FAQ post that people liked, so I thought it might be fun to do a follow up. What is your favorite thing you've done so far? Daniel: I refuse to answer that question. There were so many amazing things, how am I supposed to answer it? It is like asking a mother which child she likes best. I hate this question. Jordan: I have to agree, it is an impossible question to answer. I can answer things like my favorite city (Santiago), favorite beach (Montanita), and favorite hiking (Chalten), but how am I supposed to compare something like Machu Picchu to Salar de Uyuni to the Amazon Jungle to Patagonia? It is impossible! That being said, spending the time and money to learn Spanish was one of our best investments. It made our experiences everywhere we went much more authentic. The locals genuinely appreciated our efforts even though we may have mistakenly said some ridiculous things along the way. By the way, who knew that "purse" and the slang for "scrotum" could be so easy to confuse? OOPS.

Favorite/Least Favorite country? Daniel: Least favorite is Argentina. They lack distinctive culture, with many visible attempts to copy others. Anything distinctly Argentinian (like alfajores and parillas) were always excellent, but their attempts to copy western culture were more expensive and less enjoyable than their more authentic counterparts. Plus, there's the ordeal with the Falklands. Favorite is Chile. Santiago was our favorite city in South America, Patagonia is gorgeous (and much less expensive in Chile than Argentina), they have both the ocean and the driest desert, there are modern amenities, and we got a really cool picture of the moon. Whats not to love? Jordan: I agree with Daniel on this one... least favorite is absolutely Argentina. For all the same reasons, plus the fact that I absolutely hate dulce de leche and they put it on everything. Favorite: Ecuador. The people are amazing, the transport is easy and cheap, the culture is laid back. I absolutely fell in love with it.

Did you ever feel unsafe? In the cab from the airport to our hostel on our first night in Colombia. Other than that, we felt safe and never ran into any problems.

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How was the transportation? Superb. I wish the US had busses more readily available and similarly affordable and convenient as those found in EVERY single country that we visited throughout all of South America. It really puts the US public transport system to shame. You may have noticed that we were pretty enamored with the transit from the fact that we wrote two posts dedicated solely to busses. That being said, it wasn't always puppies and rainbows. The downsides? We got carsick ALL.THE.TIME. Oh, and sometimes, we ended up on busses that looked like this:

What was the strangest thing you've eaten? Daniel: A termite that tasted like spearmint in the Amazon jungle. Jordan: It is probably a tie between llama, alpaca, and chicken foot soup. I wasn't particularly fond of any of them. *Of note, people have asked us if penguin tastes like chicken. THERE IS NO EATING OF PENGUINS!

How did you book hotels and find places to stay? In the northern countries (Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia), we had two main methods. If it was a small town, we sometimes would just turn up and walk down the main road until we found somewhere that looked suitable. Sometimes this worked out well, and sometimes (like in Montanita) it did not. The other way we found places was by looking in wikitravel or tripadvisor for a recommendation and going there. If it was good when we got there, we would stay. If not, we would just wander around the area and we could usually find something within a few blocks. We never booked ahead. In Chile and Argentina, however, this wasn't really possible. Because they were so much more expensive, we had to book a few nights in advance if we wanted to stay in a budget option that wasn't horrible. We generally try to book directly through the hostel rather than a booking site like hostelworld so that we could avoid paying unnecessary fees. The goal was always to spend less than $30 a night for accommodations, and we were usually successful.

Did you ever get sick, and how did you handle it? For the most part, we've been pretty healthy. We posted about when Daniel was hospitalized in Cuzco with food poisoning... he received fantastic care and our travel insurance reimbursed us in full for the cost. In Bolivia, we went to a local clinic to have Daniel's infected ingrown toenail drained and removed. It was a no-frills experience... nobody spoke English, they were using an empty 2-liter coke bottle as their sharps container, and the doctor asked "Do you want to pay extra for numbing medication?" before proceeding to cut off his toenail. On the plus side, it only set us back $2.80 and they did a really good job. Aside from that, we haven't had any other doctor visits. I had a pesky sinus infection for three weeks, so I picked up a Zpak at the pharmacy (no prescription required) for around $3 and it cleared up quickly after that. We've both had a few colds, but nothing major. Oh, and I've developed an annoying case of acne on my chin. Seriously, what gives?

Why didn't you see XYZ?! I can't believe you didn't go there! We didn't visit the Galapagos, Lake Tititicaca, Iguazu Falls, or Brazil. We missed a lot of the less touristy bits in Bolivia. We skipped the Nazca lines in Peru. We never made it to a futbol game. In short, there is just no way to do it all. Even after spending six months traveling slowly, there just isn't enough time or money. The more places you visit, the more places you find out about that you want to see.  If you dash from site to site to site and try to cram as much into your time as possible, you get burned out very quickly. We decided early on that we are happier traveling more slowly and really experiencing the places we visit instead of just scratching the surface as tourists. If that means we miss some of the bigger sites, so be it. It just gives us a reason to visit again someday!

How do you handle souvenirs? The short answer is: we don't. We have bought very little along the way, mostly because it would be a pain to carry around a bunch of souvenirs and they are very expensive to ship. We mailed home a small box in Chile and a larger box more recently from Buenos Aires. The box from Buenos Aires, for example, was a little under 7kg and cost around $150 to send... needless to say, we won't be shipping anything else home for awhile! The one thing we have been collecting is local currency. We try to keep at least one crisp bill and shiny coin from each country we visit. When we get home, I would like to mount and frame them for display.

Why don't you write blog posts more often? Sometimes you go a whole week without anything! I know that we sometimes go DAYS without posting and that our families and friends crave updates, but sometimes it gets tiring. It usually takes at least two hours to put together each post, between sorting/editing/uploading photos and writing the actual content. I think we've done a pretty good job at keeping up with things, but I don't want to feel so obligated to have a certain number of posts per week that we start posting garbage.

What have you missed the most about home? Daniel: My bed. Jordan: PEANUT BUTTER! I do not understand why, but there is almost zero peanut butter to be found anywhere in South America. I've been lucky enough to find it two or three times, and it is always in a random section with a thick film of dust on the lid because nobody there eats it.  Also, I really miss running every day and the holidays have me missing home in general.

Thanks for following us along on our adventures so far. Farewell, South America... hello Europe!

Antarctica: South G.

[My apologies for this post, Jordan forced me to compose it while mildly intoxicated] After leaving the Falklands we had an exciting two days at sea. Mostly, Jordan and I spent our time in bed, trying desperately not to get sick. [Side note here: we recommend the motion sickness patches, but they won't necessarily keep everyone from getting sick] After numerous, rousing talks from the staff about things like the basics of geology and what a Pinniped is (Spolier: Seals), we arrived early in the morning to South Georgia Island.

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We had two landings planned for the days, neither of which ended up coming to fruition. There was extreme wind, preventing us from launching the zodiacs from the ship. We attempted to land at three different places in the morning and were repeatedly thwarted. We were afraid that the day would be totally lost, however, whilst eating lunch, we were saved. Our fourth attempt was Stromness Harbor and the weather had finally calmed enough for us to land. Stromness features an abandoned (and off limits) whaling station as well as a number of Gentoo penguin colonies. Jordan and I were among the last to go ashore and we were eager to do the long walk down a long valley that lead to a number of penguin colonies.

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We walked with our guide out to some... less than spectacular colonies. On the return trip we started to encounter some very strong gusts of wind. At times we had to stop walking entirely and just focus on not getting blown over by the wind. Once we made it back to the shore, we donned our life jackets and got ready to board. Only about 30 expeditioners and 10 staff still remained on shore at this point. We eventually had to sit on the ground so that we didn't have to worry about getting blown over by the wind. As we started to get cold, the group huddled together to help maintain warmth.

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It was then that the staff informed us that we just needed to wait a while on the shore, winds were too strong for the zodiacs to retrieve us. The winds continued to blow with extraordinary strength and we huddled closer and closer to our fellow expeditioners. After 1.5 hours of waiting, we were getting very, very cold. One of the staff members asked if we wanted to wait where we were, completely exposed to the elements, or if we wanted to seek shelter. Jordan and I voted for additional shelter, along with the majority of the group. Several people were wary of this because the whaling staton was off limits due to asbestos and was clearly the only shelter available.

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We ventured into the off limits area, avoiding a preponderance of aggressive fur seals along the way. Our guide nestled us between two large steel tressels that sat on the beach. These provided some minor relief from the wind. We stayed here for nearly thirty minutes, all the while, an elphant seal bellowed in the distances, causing us to fear attack. In all honesty, this wasn't actually all that much better than just sitting on the beach, but the guides were reticent of bringing us into the delapidated buldings that used to be an actual whaling station. One guide went off to check on the validity of that option, they were insulated with asbestos, but the biggest concern was the safety of the actual structures.

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After about 30 minutes sitting amongst the tressels, everyone was getting very cold (Jordan lost feeling below her knees). The guide came back, and we decided to move to the actual buildings that comprised the whaling station. A girl in front of me seemed hesitant and I reminded her that asbestos was not something to worry about, years and years of exposure are typically required for any kind of adverse side effects to take effect. The more real worry at hand was the possibility of hypothermia and frostbite. The group made our way into the structures and immediately the wind calmed. A zodiac from the ship radioed and told us to be ready as soon as possible for boarding.

Half the group returned to the shore without ever having made it entirely into the shelter we were seeking. The other half, waited anxiously for another zodiac. After about 15 minutes we were told that the zodiac was returning to pick up the last of us. We started back towards the shore, weaving between the aggressive seals, attempting not to provoke them.

Finally, we loaded into the zodiac and returned to our safe, warm boat after being stranded ashore for two and a half hours. Jordan and I immediately took showers, having been frozen to the bone. We plugged the drain in the shower so that our feet would soak in the hot shower water to warm. When we got out of the shower and pulled the drain plug, we realized that our feet had been so freezing cold that the hot shower water had turned cold from us standing in it. After everyone was safely back, we found out that the winds had actually gusted past 105 knots, or 120 miles per hour. This had actually maxed out what the instrumentation on the boat was capable of measuring, so it was actually a bit higher than that.

We learned just how quickly the weather on South G. could change.

Antarctica: The British are Coming

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Our next adventure was very different from the first day, we were to spend half a day in Stanley, the capital of The Falklands. Stanley is a bustling metropolis with an astonishing 2,115 people at last census. I haven't talked much about the history of the Falklands, I encourage a review of their wikipedia page if you don't know anything about them.

However, a quick, subjective discussion of their history is as follows: The Falklands are an overseas territory of the United Kingdom, they are self-governing. The people of The Falklands are fiercely British in their mannerisms and customs. On April 2nd, 1982, Argentina invaded the Falklands. It was a move by the Argentinian government to move the attention of the Argentine people away from their crappy economy and onto something else. This was condemned by the UN and most countries in Europe, it received support from many countries in South America (excluding Chile and Colombia).

The British responded with an expeditionary force of their own, retaking Stanley and eventually leading to an Argentinian surrender on the 14th of June. As you can imagine, this has left a very negative, and enduring mark on the memories of this small community. I can hardly imagine the fear the inhabitants felt, 255 British died in the encounter (including 3 civilian Falklanders). Issues continue to this day with Argentina continuing to provoke when it serves the government.

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All that said, Stanley is a wonderful place that I'd love to return to. Since the war, they've been less neglected by the British government and are home to over 1,000 RAF troops. Their brightly colored homes and warm hospitality make it a place that I'd love to have more than 3-4 hours to explore and learn about. We spent our time there walking around the shoreline to the museum, acquiring a number of souvenirs, visiting their supermarket (they had Twizzlers), and taking the chance to check the election results and our email for the last time (only 20 minutes, I promise!).

Upon returning to the ship, we had lunch and then began our long journey to the South Georgia islands. Days 4 and 5 of our trip were entirely at seas. We learned that we both get seasick and that laying in bed helps the situation a bit. It wasn't so bad, we were able to make it to all meals and several of the lectures offered in these days. Also included was another mandatory meeting about bio-security, including vacuuming all of our gear to ensure that we weren't transferring seeds and other things between various landing sites.

Our time in the Falklands was fantastic and I'd love the opportunity to go back and spend 2-3 weeks there, living with the people and experiencing all the wonderful things that the islands have to offer.

Nuts and Bolts

  • Remember that if you're collecting currency that the official currency on the The Falklands is the Falkland Island Pound which is tied in value to the British Pound. The currency features a number of wonderful pictures of the local wildlife.
  • DO NOT attempt to pay for things with the Argentine peso in the Falklands. This would be very insulting, it is not funny, and they are NOT accepted. Euros, British Pounds, and US dollars are all generally accepted without a problem.