Sucre, Bolivia

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When you have a sinus infection, your husband recently had an infected toenail removed for $2.89 in the sketchiest clinic ever, and the altitude makes it impossible to climb a flight of stairs without gasping for air... what do you do? Head to Sucre, of course! Sucre, aka "the white city", is one of the most tranquila cities in Bolivia. It is one of the wealthier areas, but still maintains a large indigenous population. We spent nine days there escaping the altitude of La Paz... although at 9,000 feet above sea level, it is still extremely high. We stayed at a cute little bed and breakfast called Santa Cecelia's, which was nice and quiet and even had a kitchen. It was a pleasure to do some of the simple things from home, like preparing our own meals and going to the market. Although we didn't end up doing any activities or tours, it was a pleasure to walk around the city to look at the architecture and spend time in the many public squares.

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While we were visiting, the locals spent three days celebrating the Fiesta de la Virgen de Guadalupe. There were parades with music, dancing, and the most elaborately decorated cars I've ever seen. People travel from all over the country for the holiday, and all of locals spent their day outside in the main square watching the events. One overall observation about Bolivia is that they have a LOT of parades and fiestas. Often, we find ourselves walking around and are interrupted by a parade of anything from music and dancing to kids dressed up as toothbrushes and toothpaste encouraging people to brush their teeth.

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I'm happy to say that after several days of low key hanging out and rest, both Daniel and I are finally healthy and ready for more adventure. I got in several good runs, which had been seriously lacking in the past several weeks. I also had the best intentions of hiking around the nearby Maragua Crater (which has dinosaur footprints in the bottom!), but unfortunately couldn't get a group together to go. I would definitely recommend Sucre as a good place to spend some time relaxing. It is beautiful, the weather is fantastic, and it has an overall nice vibe.

Jordan's RTW Packing List: The 4 month update

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I put a lot of thought and time into my original packing list, but as expected, I've made a few changes along the way. Since we've been on the road for nearly four months, I have picked up a few new items and tossed a few that weren't being used. I've become pretty much a pro at packing my bag, and I am still amazed at the amount of stuff that I cram into a 40 liter pack. To date, we have not met a single traveler who has a smaller bag than us. At times I've wondered if the bag is excessively small, but it is SO nice to be able to toss the bag on busses, or just walk down the street without being in danger of toppling over. All bolded items are additions to the original packing list.

Clothing:

  • 1 Shorts
  • 2 Pants/Capris I ended up bringing only 1 pair of convertible pants, and swapping the other for a pair of jeans. It is nice to have some non-"travely" looking clothes, and I wear the jeans all the time.
  • 2 Running Shorts
  • 1 2 Running Shirts I brought both a running Tshirt and a running tank top.
  • 2 T-Shirts
  • 2 Tank Tops
  • 1 Light Hoodie
  • 1 Thick Hoodie
  • 1 Waterproof Shell
  • 1 Base layer long sleeve shirt
  • 1 Pair leggings
  • 1 Bra
  • 2 SportsBras
  • 3 Underwear
  • 3 Socks
  • 1 Swimsuit
  • 1 Running Shoes
  • 1 Keens
  • 1 Flip Flops - I don't know why I didn't bring any, so I picked up a cheap pair in Ecuador for $5
  • 1 lightweight scarf - Purchased in Ecuador, I wear it almost every day.
  • 1 pair gloves - Purchased in Peru after some cold hiking. It is expensive to get good gloves, so I recommend bringing a decent pair from home
  • 1 Hat
  • 1 Towel
  • 1 REI compression sackThis ended up breaking before I even left, so I replaced it with a medium sized Sea to Summit compression sack. I love it.
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The medical bag has evolved a lot. I actually laughed when I looked at the "before" picture for the first time in months.

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...In case you forgot what was in there before

Medical Bag:

  • Malarone (enough for a small army)
  • Transderm-Scop (motion sickness) - I am hoping we can find more once we get back to first world countries, because they work remarkably well on long bus trips and don't knock me out the way dramamine does
  • Azithromycin (traveler’s diarrhea)
  • Acetazolamide/Nifedipine (altitude sickness) We took these in Bogota
  • Acetaminophen - purchased after my bout with Dengue (ibuprofen is bad for potential internal bleeding)
  • Omeprazole - purchased after Daniel's food poisoning
  • Cough medicine
  • Clindamycin gel (acne) Relocated to toiletry bag
  • Hydrocortisone cream
  • Chapstick
  • Naproxen, Sudafed, Immodium, Dramanine,and Benadryl all mixed in one container - In hindsight, I would bring a zillion tablets of Sudafed. We've gone through about half of our supply already, and we have not been able to find it (except in combination products) anywhere. Also, we both get motion sickness on busses, so we should buy stock in Dramamine.
  • Neosporin
  • Bandaids
  • Butterfly bandages
  • Moleskin
  • Scissors
  • Gauze (pads and rolled)
  • Medical tape
  • Hydrogen peroxide
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The toiletry bag has also grown a bit. I will admit it... I have a problem. I have become a free hotel soap hoarder. At one point, I had almost 45 bars. We are down to eight, so I am getting my problem under control. Blogging about it will hold me accountable.

Toiletry bag:

  • Toothbrush
  • Toothpaste
  • Floss
  • Deodorant
  • Kleenex
  • Hair putty
  • Travel hair dryer - Actually purchased to aid in drying our soaked shoes after hiking in the rain. I use it only on occasion for a "special treat"
  • Retainer
  • Chapstick
  • Shower scrub gloves - Seriously, these things are amazing. They are like a loofah that you wear, but more exfoliating. After a multi day hike, they get you squeaky clean!
  • Headbands
  • Hair ties
  • Bobby pins
  • Conditioner
  • Shampoo bars
  • Hairbrush
  • Soap - Hoarded soap is for showering, glycerin soap is for doing laundry by hand
  • Diva Cup
  • Tweezers
  • Ear Plugs These have been relocated to my purse for easy access on busses with obnoxiously loud, violent movies.
  • Nail Clippers
  • Clindamycin/Adapalene cream
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Electronics:

  • iPad
  • Apple wireless keyboard with Origami case/stand I bought this last minute before leaving for the trip, and it has been fantastic
  • iPhone
  • Garmin with charger
  • Headlamp
  • Kindle
  • Kindle cable
  • iPhone/iPad cable
  • Hard drive with cable
  • USB dongle This was originally in my bag, but it's home has moved to Daniel's camera bag
  • Bose headphones
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I actually didn't detail what was inside my purse last time, but here is what I'm usually carrying around.

Purse:

  • Pens
  • Field notes notebooks
  • Spanish/English dictionary
  • Tiny toilet paper roll
  • Transderm Scop patches/Dramamine/Imodium - for bus emergencies
  • Band aid
  • Duct tape
  • Ear plugs
  • Lighter - to light gas stoves in hostal kitchens
  • Headphones
  • Emergency candy
  • Chapstick/Aquaphor
  • Tiny pill bottle with assorted goodies
  • Deck of cards
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I also forgot to take a before picture of the miscellaneous stuff that is floating around in my bag.

Miscellaneous:

  • Water bottle - Originally had a nalgene with a flip off top, but it kept randomly opening and spilling everywhere. I replaced it in Cuenca, Ecuador for $3
  • Money belt - I've only used it once so far, so it will probably be the next item to get tossed out
  • Handheld waterbottle holder
  • Toilet paper
  • Sewing kit
  • Clothesline
  • Sunblock - Of note, in South America, we can only find ridiculously high SPFs, all usually marketed toward babies
  • Bugspray - Daniel doesn't need it, because all the bugs in a 1 mile radius are already busy feasting on me
  • Silk sleep sack
  • Inflatable travel pillow
  • Glasses
  • Sunglasses
  • Passport/travel documents
  • Plastic bags - Again, I have begun having hoarding tendencies. I try to only save the "good" grocery bags. I know this is ridiculous.

Whew! Like I said earlier, I am amazed that everything fits into a 40L backpack. All of the gear is holding up well so far, with the exception of the cheap pair of leggings I bought in Peru and the REI compression sack that was replaced before departure. I'm sure that as we change continents, the bag contents may change slightly. For the most part though, I feel like I've hit the sweet spot of having just enough, without much excess.

Cholitas Wresting - El Alto, Bolivia

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What do Bolivian indigenous women and WWF (yes- I know it's WWE now, but I'm old school and refuse to embrace the change) style wrestling have in common? More than you might think! Enter... the fighing cholitas. I saw a poster advertising the wrestling matches that take place every Sunday afternoon in El Alto, Bolivia and knew that we absolutely HAD to attend. I have fond childhood memories of hanging out with my dad and brother, watching the greats like Andre the Giant and Jake the Snake on TV, but have never been to a real, live match... until now.

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For around $11 per person, tourists can get VIP front row tickets with transportation to one of the epic matches. Also included is a popcorn snack, which you are encouraged to throw at the wrestlers. When we got there, the stands were filled with locals and tourists alike. The first few rounds are mostly men in ridiculous costumes fighting each other, with one wrestler being the obvious "bad guy". They were amusing, but nothing compared to what was to come next.

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I was PUMPED for the next set of matches... A Cholita woman wrestling a man. Obviously everyone was rooting for the women, who were in their full traditional attire. The matches were a little cheesy, but still fun. At the beginning, the "ref" checked each fighter for weapons (while trying to sneak a feel in on the cholitas). The men beat the crap out of the women to start with, but the cholitas always came back for the win. My favorite move was the body slam followed by strangling the cholita with her own braids. The refs didn't always play fair, sometimes ganging up on the women for some two-on-one action. There was some chair throwing and rowdiness involved, making it all the better.

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The final sets of matches were the main event... cholita vs. cholita. The bad one (Lucifer) was dressed in full devil attire, while the good one (Marta) was in an ornate, traditional glittery skirt. These women were tough, jumping off the ropes, body slamming each other, and really getting into it. In the very last match, a cholita fought a giant cat. The cat grabbed an unsuspecting spectator's 2 liter of coke, shokt it up, and sprayed it all over the cholita (and crowd). The fans went crazy, and a lot of popcorn was thrown in retaliation. For revenge, the cholita picked up the giant cat and threw him into the crowd. After some chair throwing and general debauchary, someone came out with a set of chains and started swinging. The crowd shrieked and cleared out, and chairs went flying. All in all, a fantastic way to spend a Sunday evening in Bolivia.

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