Italia

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We spent three weeks in Italy and to say that it was a massive change from South America would be the understatement of the year. Housing, food, and transportation have all been a dream. Conversely, our budget... well before we even arrived we realized that we'd need to at least double it to be remotely reasonable.

During our time on the Antarctica cruise and even before at hostels, we'd discuss our plans. The reaction was nearly universal. "You're visiting Europe in December? Are you skiing?" When we responded with a "no", there was a universal awkward pause, followed by an "Oh." *insert more awkward pausing* "So you're going... to Europe... in the WINTER?" So ubiquitous was this response among both friends and family that both Jordan and I began to doubt our plans. Should we consider Southeast Asia first? Should we just stick to Southern Europe to avoid the worst weather? We ended up sticking to our guns and decided that Europe was the right choice for us.

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We've loved visiting during the holidays. In fact, for anyone with a bit of time, we enthusiastically recommend this time of year, even if you are not skiing. December means holiday lights, trees, decorations, and music. It means Christmas markets. The downside, as we were warned is that December means cold and rain are a common occurrence. Your pictures will often have backdrops of gray skies. We even had to buy a cheap winter jacket (€30 at a market in Florence) for Jordan because of the bitter cold.

But the pros outweigh the cons for us. The major sites completely lack lines during this time of year. We just waltzed into the Uffizi, the Colloseum, and the Vatican museum. Italy is all the better without the stiffing heat of July and the long lines that result from summer vacation. Even the cooler weather is a pro (for our waistlines, that is)... We only ate gelato every other day or so. In the summer heat, our consumption would have probably increased four-fold!

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We spent time in Rome, Florence, Lucca, Bologna, and Venice. In a scant 21 days we've been quite busy, the higher costs force us to move more quickly. Jordan had all of our accommodations booked (almost solely through airbnb[link gives us a credit if you use airbnb]) ahead of time so that we wouldn't have to waste time figuring it out as we went. Since most of the where, when, and how of our travels is known, it has felt like we have more time than it otherwise would. We've had plenty of time in each of our locations to explore and relax when we wanted to.

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Our biggest issue is that we should have done the country in the opposite order. The food had been superb until our final stop in Venice (still far better than South America) and all the wonderful museums and churches have paled compared to our first stop at the Vatican. If you started in Venice and worked towards Rome, you'd experience Rome as the culmination of your time in Italy instead of experiencing everything as a sort of denouement.

Our next stop was Paris for Christmas (our attempt to visit CERN in Switzerland was thwarted due to lack of tour availability) followed by London for New Years. After that we plan to spend perhaps another week in England and I'd guess at most 1 week more Western Europe. After that, we aren't completely sure of our timeline... but we have a trick or two up our sleeves!

We have our other Italy pictures up on Flickr

Nuts and Bolts

  • Visit Italy during the off or shoulder season. This helps you beat the heat and avoid the crowds.
  • Give yourself enough time in each place, you don't want to be rushing around.
  • If you come in the winter be sure to bring warm clothing and rain gear. However, some days reach the mid 40s and that feels rather warm after walking around on days in the 20s.
  • Come in December and enjoy the Christmas lights, it has been very fun

Times they are A-changin'

After over six months of blogging about nearly every single city we've visited, it's time for a change. We are getting to the point where we dread writing up posts and feel bad about being too far behind on pictures. It also feels weird that we're still not finished writing about Antarctica, when it seems like it happened ages ago already. We've since rented an apartment for a week in Buenos Aires, flown via Madrid to Rome, then travelled by train from Rome to Florence and Lucca, Italy. Since reaching Europe, we've started travelling more quickly. And frankly, we're a little burned on the blogging and feel like our posts are starting to get monotonous. With that being said, have no fear! We don't plan to stop writing altogether. We will probably reduce the frequency to twice a week or so, and stop posting the nitty gritty details of every place we visit. Instead, we may tell a story. We may do a country wrap-up, a budget analysis (but probably not since we're failing miserably in this area), or we may just spew some random thoughts. Hopefully this change will result in us being reinvigorated in our writing and in better posts for everyone to read. We also plan to continue uploading all of our photos to our flickr page. We will, of course, keep eating and taking pictures of ice cream.

Speaking of ice cream... I have an announcement to make. It may result in me getting stones cast my way, dirty looks, or a general "WTF IS YOUR PROBLEM, WOMAN?!"-type reaction. It is certainly not a popular opinoin, so you have been duly warned. Try to contain your gasps. Here goes...

...the gelato in Italy is not the best ice cream I have ever had in my life.

There. I said it. I've tried it several times (in Rome, Florence, and Lucca). I've had chocolate, "cookies", strawberry, kiwi, and even sesame (this was a strange grey colored ice cream). I've visited gelato shops in both touristy areas and tucked into residential neighborhoods where nobody speaks a word of English. I've tried it in a cone, on top of a waffle, drizzled with nutella, and topped with whipped cream.

Don't get me wrong, it is delicious... I haven't COMPLETELY lost my mind. It is better in Italy than all the ice cream I've eaten before... until Argentina. In my likely unpopular opinion, Bariloche, Argentina wins the award for best ice cream so far. Because I expected to have the most out of this world, orgasmic ice cream experience imaginable, and I've had what I consider to better, I'm a little underwhelmed by Italy's famed gelato. I am also disappointed in the cone quality... how can you put tasty ice cream in a "meh" cone? It is a crime. In the end, it's just really tasty ice cream. Argentina had a wider flavor selection, similar quality, and superior cones. Also, I have never heard anyone rave about Argentina's ice cream, so it was SUCH a pleasant surprise. Perhaps people don't rave about Argentinian ice cream because they just don't visit?

...And there you have it! We are hanging out in Lucca for a few more days before heading off to Bologna and then Venice. I look forward to continuing to stuff my face through the rest of Italy. Ciao!